How To Change Regular 17wp Tig Torch. To Stubby Head

I saw this topic mentioned a while back, merely I can't detect the thread now that information technology may exist relevant and actually mean something to me.

I'yard on weekend #4 of learning to TIG weld. Weekend #2 was pretty good, weekend #3 was poor and today was downright lousy. My arc is spitting and snapping. My practice beads are terrible. I wouldn't even call them beads. I've tweaked a few settings on my Primeweld 225, but the results aren't any meliorate.

If I had no gas the electrode would be smoking/black, right? It isn't, but oft when I get the filler close to weld pool it seems like it'due south jumping upward to the electrode. At this indicate I'1000 wasting aluminum, consumables and electricity.

My gauge says I have almost 400 PSI left in the 60 cf tank. That should exist practiced force per unit area, right? Is it possible the bottom of the cylinder is not as good equally the acme of the cylinder?

What tungsten are you using and is it completely clean, is the aluminum clean, what gas menses are y'all using, do you have a good connection for the work clamp. Could be muddy gas merely sounds like the high frequency may be jumping to the filler rod. Some pics would help equally would all the parameters y'all're using. Lots of possible causes. Having the Tig torch cable partly wrapped up can cause issues with the loftier frequency likewise.

Tungsten: three/32" 2% Lanthanated, all recently sharpened.
Cup: #five and #7 (I use a stick out estimate based on loving cup size)
Argon CFH: Started out around 12, went upward to 20, back down to about 15, depending on cup size
Electric current: Betwixt 75 and xc amps
Frequency: Between 75 and 120, merely mostly at 120
Residue: 30% cleaning
Filler: three/32" 4043 (Harris)
Did I miss whatever settings?

Tig cable was loose, not bound up. Office of information technology was laying over my leg to take tension off of my arm.

Aluminum was cleaned with Acetone kickoff, then wire brushed with a brass castor used only for cleaning aluminum, then wiped again with a dry cloth. The clamp is fastened to the welding tabular array, virtually 18" from the piece I'k working on, which is 1/8" angle aluminum (6061).

When you asked nigh the tungsten beingness completely clean, are y'all referring to the tip or the unabridged length. I've contaminated the electrode with the filler in the past. When I notice that information technology happened I put that electrode aside for special attention. I sand it and then the shaft of the electrode is make clean, but there is sometimes some discoloration remaining. I'm not certain how far I have to become to become it "clean enough". The first couple of times that happened I cut off the discolored section with wire cutters. Unfortunately that acquired my tungsten to fracture/split, and then at present I don't cut information technology off.

Quote Originally Posted by HRTKD View Post

Tungsten: iii/32" ii% Lanthanated, all recently sharpened.
Cup: #5 and #7 (I utilize a stick out gauge based on cup size)
Argon CFH: Started out around 12, went up to 20, dorsum downwardly to nigh fifteen, depending on cup size
Current: Between 75 and 90 amps
Frequency: Betwixt 75 and 120, but generally at 120
Balance: thirty% cleaning
Filler: 3/32" 4043 (Harris)
Did I miss any settings?

Tig cable was loose, non leap up. Part of it was laying over my leg to take tension off of my arm.

Aluminum was cleaned with Acetone kickoff, and then wire brushed with a brass castor used only for cleaning aluminum, and so wiped again with a dry fabric. The clench is attached to the welding tabular array, about eighteen" from the piece I'grand working on, which is ane/8" angle aluminum (6061).

When you asked about the tungsten being completely clean, are you referring to the tip or the unabridged length. I've contaminated the electrode with the filler in the past. When I notice that it happened I put that electrode aside for special attending. I sand information technology so the shaft of the electrode is clean, but there is sometimes some discoloration remaining. I'thousand not sure how far I have to get to get it "clean enough". The first couple of times that happened I cut off the discolored section with wire cutters. Unfortunately that acquired my tungsten to fracture/split up, so now I don't cut it off.

Settings seem fine, I'm leaning more towards a physical problem earlier I make the gas the culprit. Have you lot disassembled the torch since you first hooked upwards this tank? A lot of times people assemble things wrong, and don't know it. Or even if they did, in that location is something else they tin't spot but someone else tin can.

Quote Originally Posted by Oscar View Post

Settings seem fine, I'grand leaning more towards a concrete problem before I make the gas the culprit. Have you lot disassembled the torch since you first hooked up this tank? A lot of times people assemble things wrong, and don't know it. Or even if they did, there is something else they tin can't spot but someone else can.

Depends on what you mean by "disassembled". I've changed cups, removed the ii copper pieces inside the torch and put them back together. The electrode is secure in the torch. I did all that the start weekend. The second weekend I had decent chaplet.

I checked for gas leaks at the regulator, at the back of the welder and at the front of the welder. I didn't check for leaks at the torch. Other than at the electrode stop and the cap end, I don't know where I would wait for leaks on the torch. I haven't taken anything else in the torch autonomously.

Quote Originally Posted by HRTKD View Post

Depends on what yous hateful by "disassembled". I've changed cups, removed the two copper pieces inside the torch and put them back together. The electrode is secure in the torch. I did all that the first weekend. The second weekend I had decent beads.

I checked for gas leaks at the regulator, at the back of the welder and at the front of the welder. I didn't check for leaks at the torch. Other than at the electrode end and the cap end, I don't know where I would look for leaks on the torch. I haven't taken annihilation else in the torch apart.

Exactly what you lot described is what I mean. There could be something that yous're just not seeing, and someone else tin can spot. For example, I'm not saying y'all did this, but if you were to happen to forget to install the white teflon insulator, simply totally forgot about information technology, and mail service a picture, someone would spot that in a jiffy. Same goes with the other parts. While in that location isn't too much to go incorrect, you'd exist surprised how many people have been corrected at what they thought was a correctly-assembled TIG torch.

Pictures of my torch. I removed the tungsten when I was finished. I don't exit information technology in the torch, but it too needed to exist sharpened. In the second picture I pulled the cap off and the copper piece came out with information technology.

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Your collet appears to exist overheated, and if it was torqued downward also hard while information technology was hot, it might have compromised it. I would switch it out to eliminate it as a possible culprit. Also, the collet body appears to be overheated, and if you adapted the flexible cervix during that time while it was hot, information technology could take partially collapsed the tube inside. Exercise you lot have another torch to endeavor out?

Quote Originally Posted past Oscar View Post

Your collet appears to be overheated, and if information technology was torqued down also hard while it was hot, information technology might have compromised information technology. I would switch it out to eliminate it every bit a possible culprit. Also, the collet body appears to be overheated, and if yous adjusted the flexible neck during that time while it was hot, information technology could have partially collapsed the tube inside. Practice you have another torch to try out?

This is the only torch I accept. It's the one that came with the Primeweld. I rarely adjust the torch. I may have another collet and collet torso from a stubby kit that I have yet to use.

12:29 AM

I'd say try information technology out. Won't injure.

Every bit for the amperage you stated. 75-90A won't practice that kind of heat damage to the torch especially not a CK IMO. Had you previously cranked the machine up to max through that same torch? Tin can you take the handle off and accept a look at the tube/plumbing fixtures also as the fittings on the machine stop? I take it you have checked those as well for any potential issues?

Quote Originally Posted by Oscar View Post

I'd say try information technology out. Won't hurt.

As for the amperage you stated. 75-90A won't do that kind of heat impairment to the torch particularly non a CK IMO. Had you previously cranked the automobile upwardly to max through that same torch?

Information technology's never been over 125 amps Ac.

Just for giggles, I switched over to DC today and made some beads in mild steel. These were coupons I had brought habitation from the grade I took in December. I didn't have any filler rod, only I was able to brand a pool OK. I switched the settings co-ordinate to the "recipe" in the Primeweld owner's transmission. This was afterwards all the atrocious attempts in aluminum.

Quote Originally Posted by HRTKD View Post

Information technology'south never been over 125 amps Ac.

But for giggles, I switched over to DC today and made some beads in balmy steel. These were coupons I had brought abode from the class I took in December. I didn't accept whatsoever filler rod, but I was able to make a puddle OK. I switched the settings co-ordinate to the "recipe" in the Primeweld owner's manual. This was after all the awful attempts in aluminum.

Just what I was nigh to suggest. The times I've suspected bad gas when on aluminum I could still get decent chaplet on steel... getting a new tank fill solved the problem. Is information technology possible that the aluminum is anodized? If you got it a box store, information technology, probably, is. I presume you are using a pedal, so plow the amps all the mode upward, and control the puddle past pulsing the pedal, until the puddle appears.

Quote Originally Posted past Weldordie View Post

Simply what I was nearly to suggest. The times I've suspected bad gas when on aluminum I could even so get decent chaplet on steel... getting a new tank fill solved the trouble. Is it possible that the aluminum is anodized? If you lot got information technology a box shop, information technology, probably, is. I presume you lot are using a pedal, so turn the amps all the way upward, and control the puddle by pulsing the pedal, until the puddle appears.

No, the aluminum is not anodized. Some did come from the big box store, some came direct from a metal supply firm and a coupon came from my grade. Yes, I'm using a pedal.

On my machine, for 30% cleaning y'all set the machine setting to seventy%. For another machines %30.
If non for the fact that he had success initially I might suspect his balance is backwards only that should still not have the soot he is experiencing.
Have yous tried varying the gas menses recently? Regulators tin exist less authentic at low input pressures and you lot may demand to move away from what was a perfect setting.
If argon flow is even so good then I'thou with Oscar, some kind of mechanical outcome with the torch/fittings/hose is cartoon air into the gas flow or you're losing enough argon via a leak that your flow at the cup is too low. this is a example where the torch flow meter tells all.
https://www.arc-zone.com/shield-gas-flow-tester-50020

Ane other matter not mentioned yet is environmental. Tig is actually sensitive to drafts in the welding area. Whatsoever hazard you're sitting there with a forced air heater or fan pointed your way?

Quote Originally Posted by frieed View Post

On my motorcar, for 30% cleaning y'all prepare the auto setting to 70%. For some other machines %30.
If non for the fact that he had success initially I might suspect his balance is backwards but that should still not take the soot he is experiencing.
Have you tried varying the gas menstruum recently? Regulators tin can be less accurate at low input pressures and you lot may need to movement away from what was a perfect setting.
If argon flow is still good and so I'1000 with Oscar, some kind of mechanical event with the torch/fittings/hose is drawing air into the gas catamenia or you lot're losing enough argon via a leak that your period at the loving cup is too depression. this is a example where the torch period meter tells all.
https://world wide web.arc-zone.com/shield-gas-catamenia-tester-50020

One other thing not mentioned yet is environmental. Tig is really sensitive to drafts in the welding area. Any adventure yous're sitting there with a forced air heater or fan pointed your mode?

Thank you for the link to the test menstruation meter. I'm going to order ane of those. The graduations are effectively than what I can run into on my regulator.

My garage door was open this weekend, but not terminal weekend (blizzard!). The airflow through the surface area was minimal this weekend and I'm welding in the back of the garage, well away from the large garage door. I am aware of the airflow issue. No fan or heater.

If everything checks out then it is possible the tank may have some residual moisture that rears its ugly caput at lower tank pressures.

I have a tank of Helium that was given to me. Information technology's mostly full I call back. I haven't tried using it since I don't have a T or Y adapter. I could endeavor information technology out, only I'm non sure what TIG welding aluminum with 100% Helium would look like.

I've never seen a reference for using a brass castor to clean aluminum. It's always use a clean stainless castor. It'south all I utilize and don't have the issues you are describing.

Equally far as argon pressure in a modest tank, I never let my 42cf tanks get beneath 200psi. I have ii tanks that size and switch out when I find one that depression. I don't trust my judge enough to chance burning upwardly my tungsten and I know I would only accept a couple minutes of gas anyways.

Aluminum was the reason I bought my Weldpro Tig and is the only material I have welded with it. I'grand using the aforementioned blazon and size of tungsten you lot are with a number 5 standard cup and accept had similar problems with contamination, or having the fabric jump and attach to the tungsten. I've been welding on boats and rivets practically explode when heated. I've had aluminum one-half an inch upward my tungsten in a big glob. It grinds off just fine you don't take to break off your tungsten. I tried that one time and mine split. Lost 3/four" of that tungsten. Simply grind off the contamination xc� from how the tip is commonly ground and smooth the grind marks with a wire bike. Works good for me.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Quote Originally Posted by bplayer405 View Post

I've never seen a reference for using a brass brush to clean aluminum. It's always utilize a make clean stainless brush. Information technology's all I utilise and don't have the issues you are describing.

Every bit far as argon pressure in a small tank, I never permit my 42cf tanks become below 200psi. I accept two tanks that size and switch out when I find one that low. I don't trust my approximate enough to chance burning upwards my tungsten and I know I would only have a couple minutes of gas anyways.

Aluminum was the reason I bought my Weldpro Tig and is the only textile I have welded with information technology. I'grand using the aforementioned blazon and size of tungsten you lot are with a number v standard cup and have had similar problems with contagion, or having the fabric jump and adhere to the tungsten. I've been welding on boats and rivets practically explode when heated. I've had aluminum half an inch upwards my tungsten in a big glob. Information technology grinds off just fine y'all don't accept to break off your tungsten. I tried that once and mine split up. Lost 3/4" of that tungsten. Just grind off the contamination xc� from how the tip is normally footing and smooth the grind marks with a wire wheel. Works good for me.

Any idea why the filler jumps onto the electrode so readily?

You my be simply too close to the puddle when you lot dip causing the puddle to touch on the tungsten, or the tungsten is also close to the filler when you're trying to add filler. The arc will spring to the filler instead of the puddle.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Picture of the beads I produced a couple weeks ago.
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No pictures of yesterday's "beads". They were horrible. I was so disgusted that I really, really didn't want to post any pictures of them.

Today, earlier trying annihilation, I replaced the overheated collet and collet torso with a brand new collet and collet trunk from a chubby gas lens kit I had yet to utilize. Same back cap. Results were totally different. Was it just the new collet and collet body?

Picture of the today'due south beads with settings noted beneath each picture show. This is all i/eight" foursquare tube aluminum 6061.
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Amps: 90 (all)
Freq: 60 (all)
Balance: 40% (4-2 and 4-3) sixty% (4-4)
Preflow: ~1s (all)
Postflow: ~6s (all)
Electrode: three/32" two% Lanthanated (all)
Filler: iii/32" 4043 (all)
Loving cup: #7 stubby lens (all)
Argon: ~ 20 CFH (all)

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Balance: 30% (4-v and all the rest)
New Tungsten for 4-6

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No changes to setup. It seems like the warmer the aluminum is, the easier it is for me to get a weld pool started.

Today's welds aren't pretty but they're a heck of a lot better than yesterday's. I yet had some hissing and spitting from the arc, most of which went away when I went pedal to the metal.

My Argon cylinder was downwards to about 200 PSI and so I called it a solar day. I have replacement regular sized collet and collet body sets ordered.

09:07 PM

I don't take the aforementioned motorcar as yours, simply I have a couple suggestions to try. Effort running your max amps using the ane amp per .001" thickness rule, try 35% residue to get good cleaning and a make clean weld, and attempt using a period rate only double your cup size. Total throttle tig welding can go out of control pretty chop-chop, takes a fleck of do. I'm not there nevertheless myself, I use pulse to control it improve for now. I've only had mine less than 2 weeks, but use it quite a scrap, already through a tank and a half. It'll come... I tell myself that after every weld...

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Looks similar a couple of things going on. Yous're non using enough amps, so information technology's taking too long to get the puddle going, and that puts besides much estrus into the work. Set your amperage at least to 125 so you lot can get the pool started in a second or two, then ease off as necessary.

Your Ac balance is off quite a bit on some of those. The Primeweld references the percent of positive, then you don't actually want more than nigh 40% for anything, and unremarkably much less. Try varying from twenty% up to forty%....you lot'll probably find something like 25-30% works well. Y'all only desire/need the cleaning action to be slightly wider than the bead, and then those with wide, white strips extending away from the bead simply had too much cleaning.

Something else that happens is running dewdrop later dewdrop puts heat into the slice, which you don't desire in this situation. Yes, it makes it easier to go a puddle started, because yous don't have enough amps, but information technology prevents the pool from freezing quickly when you dip filler, which is what you want for a smooth, shiny dewdrop. A frosty bead cooled besides slowly.

If the filler is jumping to the tungsten it'south likely that y'all're keeping it in the oestrus zone, which you don't want....motility it farther away between dabs, but still in the area generally covered by the gas (a lot wider area than the oestrus from the arc).

Aluminum is all about getting things counterbalanced, and keeping moving....puddle, dab, move, dab, move, dab, motion, etc.

Quote Originally Posted past G-ManBart View Post

Looks like a couple of things going on. You're not using enough amps, then it'due south taking too long to get the puddle going, and that puts too much heat into the work. Prepare your amperage at to the lowest degree to 125 so you tin get the pool started in a second or two, then ease off as necessary.

Your AC balance is off quite a flake on some of those. The Primeweld references the per centum of positive, so you don't really desire more than well-nigh 40% for anything, and usually much less. Try varying from twenty% up to 40%....you'll probably find something like 25-30% works well. You only want/demand the cleaning action to be slightly wider than the bead, so those with broad, white strips extending away from the bead but had too much cleaning.

Something else that happens is running bead afterward bead puts heat into the slice, which yous don't want in this situation. Aye, it makes it easier to get a pool started, because yous don't accept enough amps, but information technology prevents the puddle from freezing rapidly when you dip filler, which is what you want for a shine, shiny bead. A frosty bead cooled besides slowly.

If the filler is jumping to the tungsten it's likely that y'all're keeping it in the heat zone, which you lot don't desire....move information technology further abroad between dabs, simply nonetheless in the area generally covered past the gas (a lot wider area than the oestrus from the arc).

Aluminum is all almost getting things balanced, and keeping moving....puddle, dab, move, dab, motion, dab, move, etc.

Y'all're correct, I've had issues getting the puddle going. I watched one of the The Fabrication Series videos today that hammered home that very point. I idea 90 amps was my sweetness spot, just mayhap more amps are needed. I'll give that a attempt.

Given your comment on frosty beads, I looked dorsum and my pictures and sure plenty, information technology's correct there in picture #4. Top bead is shiny, bottom bead is frosty. I did those three beads pretty much i right after the other. I was on a scroll!

I sure appreciate the feedback. I'thou learning every time I turn the machine on.

10:57 PM

Most times contamination is gas flow or gas coverage issue. Get-go thing I do is check the flow at the torch, not the flowmeter to make sure the gas is getting where information technology is supposed to be. This 1 from ebay works well. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Welding-Arg...53.m1438.l2649

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The other problem is newbies don't go along a tight arc and cram the rod into the puddle from the side. They tend to lift the torch and lose gas coverage, and when calculation rod to the puddle they introduce it to the arc gap and dribble information technology into the puddle. No, slide the rod in from the side directly into the pool keeping a tight arc.

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How To Change Regular 17wp Tig Torch. To Stubby Head,

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